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Fin quando da ragazzo si trovava con gli amici del liceo al bar di Casette d’ Ete, in provincia di Ascoli Piceno, se si parlava di qualche oggetto con potenzialita’ di marketing, lui alzava le antenne e indagava per sapere dove trovarlo. Adesso chi pranza con lui lo sa. Se gli segnala un marchio interessante se lo fa amico per sempre. E il caso del giaccone Fay, quello che usavano i pompieri americani e i pescatori del New England, oggi status symbol degli anni ‘ 90, indossato da Giovanni Agnelli e Pietro Barilla. Lo scout che l’ ha scoperto e’ Enzo Manes, finanziere di Europa Investimenti e amico di Diego. “Me l’ ha segnalato dopo averlo intravisto appeso a impolverarsi nella vetrina di un negozietto in un villaggio vicino a Boston”. Detto fatto, Della Valle mobilita la struttura d’ indagine che era guidata da due rampolli del suo giro, Daniele Montezemolo (fratello di Luca) e Cristina Gabetti (figlia di Gianluigi), si accaparra l’ esclusiva del marchio e comincia a produrlo nelle sue fabbriche marchigiane. Ed e’ subito business. E cosi’ , fondendo il marketing da bar con le ricerche sociologiche di Francesco Alberoni e Giampaolo Fabris che questo talent scout di marchi di successo ha fatto della sua azienda un caso in controtendenza nella crisi del mercato delle scarpe. Mentre negli ultimi cinque mesi dell’ anno scorso il settore ha subito una recessione dell’ 8%, il gruppo Della Valle ha aumentato le vendite a ritmi del 20 25% l’ anno e si e’ mantenuto su utili netti che toccano il 23% del fatturato. Con l’ aggiunta di una solida crescita occupazionale. “E stiamo ancora assumendo”, assicura. Se c’ e’ una chiave, pero’ , nel successo dell’ azienda, secondo Della Valle sta nell’ aver sempre fabbricato prodotti con un ottimo rapporto prezzi qualita’ e nel non aver mai dimenticato il consumatore finale. Ed e’ proprio qui che, a sentire Della Valle, si fa la differenza. Tra chi, negli euforici anni ‘ 80, ha cercato di spremere come un limone la moda del momento, rifilando marchi vuoti e chi da’ prodotti veri. “Ecco, noi con le scarpe Tod’ s, per esempio, diamo qualcosa che si puo’ indossare 24 ore su 24. Il consumatore capisce, compra, spende ma ammortizza con l’ uso”. Con questa filosofia, per Della Valle, il marchio diventa un regalo fatto al cliente. Della Valle, cioe’ , si e’ inventato una filosofia dei consumi che a lui porta tanti soldi in tasca e che, in piu’ , sta tutta sull’ onda di un momento politico economico in cui la gente chiede risultati e chiarezza. Cosi’ la sua parola d’ ordine diventa “ritorno al mercato”. Tradotta in affari la regola funziona in modo positivo e Della Valle la sua nicchia d’ oro di mercato vuol continuare ad occuparla e ad estenderla. A Pasqua lancera’ una nuova calzatura da vela, Tod’ s Competition, studiata con uno che se ne intende, Paul Cayard, lo skipper del Moro. Sul versante acquisizioni, un paio di mesi fa aveva fatto un pensierino sulla Superga, ma poi si e’ ritirato “perche’ . dice . dopo averci guardato bene dentro mi sono accorto che per noi non era interessante: costava troppo, non creava sinergie e, soprattutto, non era un marchio di quelli che piacciono a noi, cioe’ con grande possibilita’ di consumo a livello mondiale”. Adesso invece ha messo gli occhi su una fabbrica di jeans americana e l’ acquisizione e’ imminente. Si tratta di un marchio adatto al suo progetto di negozi “Globe”. Che oggi sono 12 (tutti di proprieta’ ), ma che arriveranno in pochi anni a 200 in franchising tra Italia ed estero. E la previsione di fatturato per il gruppo e’ ghiotta: 250 miliardi. L’ idea e’ quella di un contenitore di marchi in cui il consumatore possa trovare sempre qualcosa di nuovo e di cui ha bisogno. Marchi esclusivi puntati per l’ 80% su abbigliamento e accessori e per il resto su oggetti vari compresa la piccola cancelleria. Con un’ immagine omogenea a Washington come a Pescara. In agosto si aprira’ un Globe a New York nell’ East Side, poi seguiranno Los Angeles e Parigi. A Milano, in via della Spiga, si parte a settembre. E visto che l’ effimero e’ ormai un peccato, ci sara’ la riscoperta del vecchio ciabattino: un calzolaio in negozio che rifa’ il tacco, sistema la scarpa stretta o la prepara lucidata e rivitalizzata per la stagione seguente. Di fatto, un omaggio alle origini, al nonno Filippo, ciabattino a Montesacro Scalo e soprattutto al padre Dorino, oggi presidente del gruppo, che a cavallo della seconda guerra mondiale impara l’ arte e, negli anni ‘ 50, trova la nicchia delle scarpe di buona qualita’ . Negli anni ‘ 70 capisce le qualita’ del figlio Diego e gli passa progressivamente le responsabilita’ . E Diego si rivela quel grande inventore di marchi: nell’ 82 Tod’ s, poi Diego Della Valle, Deva, Koss, Fay e Hogan. PUBBLICATO TITOLO: Ai piedi di Kevin e di Arnold Kevin Costner le ha comprate l’ ultima volta che e’ stato in Italia, le ha calzate sul set e non le ha piu’ mollate. Tom Cruise le ha viste e, quando ha scoperto che erano prodotte dal suo amico Diego Della Valle, se n’ e’ subito fatte mandare un paio. Insomma, in poco tempo la voce e’ girata e a Hollywood e’ scoppiata la febbre delle scarpe Hogan. Mario Kassar, che e’ presidente della Carolco e produttore di Arnold Schwarzenegger e’ stato subissato di richieste, cosi’ ha telefonato a Diego Della Valle, ne ha ordinate uno stock e le ha regalate a Natale al suo pupillo e a tanti altri divi, non esclusi Silvester Stallone e la fatale Sharon Stone. “Con testimonial inattesi di questo tipo . commenta soddisfatto Della Valle . mi aspetto di posizionarle benissimo in tutto il mondo”. Dopo Tod’ s, Fay e tanti altri marchi indovinati, questo sembra propio essere l’ anno delle Hogan. Un brand inventato direttamente da Diego Della Valle dopo che lui stesso aveva visto in un “magazzinaccio” di Filadelfia delle vecchie scarpe una volta usate per il cricket e per correre. Insomma, un oggetto per il tempo libero dimenticato da oltre quarant’ anni e che, ancora una volta, viene riportato a seconda vita da Della Valle. L’ azienda marchigiana aveva cominciato a produrre le Hogan gia’ sei anni fa, ma il consenso vero del mercato e’ venuto solo da due stagioni. “Ora, grazie a Hollywood . spiega Della Valle . mi aspetto di venire a contatto nel mondo con 5 6 milioni di clienti potenziali”.

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